It is a healthy habit for cats to scratch things although the effects on the pet owner’s furniture or carpets can be devastating. Fabrics and wood feel great to the cat when scratching but, unfortunately, can’t really stand up to the kitty’s love. This can turn into a serious issue for the pet owner.

The pet owner must first realize that the pet is not misbehaving or intentionally trying to destroy the items being scratched. The cat’s only utilizing the best object for scratching that is available. Instead of trying to make the cat stop scratching, an appropriate scratching post needs to be provided for the cat so the owner can begin training on using it instead of the furniture. Once given an acceptable alternative, the cat can be made to understand that other items are forbidden for scratching.

A good place to start is to really take note of the physical attributes of the item or items the cat prefers to scratch. This will help the pet owner understand the preferences:

• Location – Observe the area of the house where the cat does the most scratching.
• Texture – A very important element of what the cat likes. Determine the whether the cat likes soft, coarse, grainy or smooth surfaces for scratching.
• Orientation – Determine the position most preferred for scratching. Does your cat do most of its scratching laying down or does it like to stand on its hind legs and reach for the object to be scratched?

Taking note of these aspects of what the kitty likes will enable the owner to find an appropriate substitution for the unacceptable recipients of the cat’s attention. It is recommended to find items that are similar to truly entice the cat. Once a good substitute is acquired, it should be placed in the same area as the object the cat is currently using for scratching. The replacement object should be sturdy and securely positioned so that it won’t move or tip over when in use.

The unacceptable objects that were used for scratching should now be made unattractive to the cat. This can be accomplished by covering the area of the object with aluminum foil, double-sided tape, plastic pointy carpet runners or sand paper. Scent plays a part in displacing the cat’s attention as well. Try perfuming the objet with an unpleasant smell like muscle rub or perfume. Take care that the scent is applied specifically to the unacceptable item so that the new acceptable scratching object is not contaminated.

Once the cat has begun scratching the acceptable object and has begun to ignore the unacceptable one, the new object can be gradually moved to a location that is more suitable in the scheme of the room. This has to be done slowly at a rate of approximately one inch per day. In order to remain effective, the new scratching object needs to remain as close to the previously used object as possible.

The coverings and scent treatments used to discourage the cat from using the initial scratching object should be left in place and maintained for at least a month or several weeks. Removal should be done gradually, not at once.

It is natural for kittens to exhibit scratching behavior. Often, it is a form of play as well as a necessary element of their physical development. Regardless of the reason, it can be a very unpleasant experience when the furniture of the home has to suffer for it. There are some simple steps to use in order to train a kitten not to scratch household items. Pet owners beginning the training in this area of a kitten should consider themselves fortunate as good habits are easier to teach than breaking established behavior patterns.

At the onset, it is a good idea for the pet owner to play with the kitten around the appropriate scratching area or post. Using toys or attaching them to the scratching area will compel the kitten to dig claws into the scratching surface. The toys will draw the kitten’s attention to the scratching area or object and help it to know the pleasure of the feel of it.

Manually applying the kitten’s paws to the scratching surface is not recommended. It only inspires a rebellious attitude which can lead to an unpleasant relationship between pet owner and kitten. Cats are strong-willed even at an early age.

If the kitten begins to scratch inappropriate objects, it is best to immediately remove it to the scratching area or post and pet it there. Many kittens knead with their claws when they are being petted. This encourages the kitten to dig into the correct surface while reinforcing the correct behavior with the benefit of physical reward.

It is important to realize that cats do not damage carpet and furniture by scratching in an effort to sharpen claws or as a form of vindictive behavior. Scratching objects is more a way for the cat to groom itself than it is anything else. Sheaths of a cat’s claws are constantly renewed and replaced and scratching is the way they remove the old sheaths from front claws. The sheaths of the back claws are removed by mouth.

The scent glands contained in the cat’s paw pads emit the cat’s scent on the surface scratched which enables them to mark territory. The scent is undetectable by humans but other animals smell it. Claw marks also provide a visual indication of a cat’s territory to be understood by other cats.

Scratching is also an emotional response of cats. It can be a form of stress relief as it often will increase when territorial conflicts or other stressors arise. Anxiety, tension and frustration will also result in increased scratching.

Cats often focus on a limited number of obvious environmental objects for scratching such as sofas, fence posts or trees. Once they have singled out a particular object, they will repeatedly use them for scratching. This can be evidenced by the presence of a particularly scarred tree in the neighbor’s yard or an exposed portion of a couch. The visible damage is a communication to other cats as well.

The scent left on an item by the cat’s scratching is another strong form of communication to other cats. The ability to mark an area or item with the scent from the paw pads is the reason even declawed cats will continually scratch certain objects. Although the visible evidence is not there, the cat can still mark its territory.

The damage a cat can inflict on the pet owner’s household possessions can be a great source of frustration and often lead to the cat losing its home. It is much easier to prevent this problem than it is to rectify it. Once a cat has an established favorite scratching area, it can be very difficult to persuade it to focus on a more appropriate one for the pet owner’s benefit. It is best to begin training the cat to use a scratching post or other acceptable scratching area as early as possible.

Pet owners often make the mistake of placing scratching posts in a remote area. Scratching is a form of territory marking for the cat. To get the cat to use it, the scratching post must be put in a room and area that the family uses. After some time, the post can be moved to a location in the periphery but it should start out centrally located. Movement of the post needs to be done gradually.

The post should initially be placed where the cat does its scratching. There may be multiple chairs or sofas the cat has claimed as a territorial scratching spot. In that case, multiple posts may be needed. To ensure the post is appealing to the cat it needs to be secure. A post that shakes or feels as if it will fall over will be avoided by the cat. Posts should have a wide and strong base or be secured in some way to the room’s floor for stability.

The cat can be encouraged to employ the scratching post by playing with or feeding it in close proximity. Catnip powder or leaves can be rubbed into the post as encouragement as well. Anything associated with the new post should be pleasurable for the cat and it should be rewarded for using it. A toy or chase string should be placed around it or toys can be attached to it. Attached toys will cause the cat to dig claws into the post establishing it as belonging to the cat.

Another good location for the post is where the cat sleeps. When cats awaken, they like to get a good scratch in whether in the day or night. To bring a cat sheer joy, place one in each room of the entire house. No matter how many scratching posts are in the house, the key one is in the room where the pet owner and cat spend the majority of their time together.

If the cat has difficulty giving up the old scratching territory, there are many means of discouragement that can be used. Covering scratching spots with double-sided tape or aluminum foil creates a surface that is unpleasant to scratch. It is important to remember that scratching territory is marked by the cat’s scent as much as their claws. It may be necessary to remove a cat’s scent from a scratching area in order to help it break the habit. Pet stores and most supermarkets sell solutions formulated for pet odor removal. Citrus odors displease cats so using them in either a spray or potpourri form to treat the area may also help.

If the cat continues to scratch the furniture, squirting it with a water gun or a stream-set spray bottle may solve the problem. Another method would be to blow a whistle or make some other unpleasant, loud noise when the cat scratches the furniture. Deterrents must be employed at the time of scratching in order to have an effect on the behavior and compel the cat to engage in the behavior desired.

Punishment should only be administered to a cat that is in the middle of scratching objects that are unacceptable. Punishment that is not administered at the time of the offense is not effective and confuses the cat. It will not eliminate the problem with scratching unless administered properly.

The ideal punishment method to use on a cat that is scratching objects it should not is remote punishment. This type of punishment has no direct interaction between cat and owner. Methods of remote punishment can include throwing a pillow at the cat, squirting it with a water gun or spray bottle set on “stream”, or loud noises such as whistles, wall-slapping or loud rattling sounds. Use of interactive punishment in which the cat knows the owner is inflicting it, will only serve as a deterrent when the owner is present. It trains the cat to wait until the owner is out of sight before scratching the inappropriate furniture.

Cats do not have a comprehension of the principles of punishment which is why administering it after the act has been committed does not work. Animals in general do not understand the use of physical punishment as a consequence. Hitting a cat will only teach it to fear and breed insecurity.

An insecure cat will develop other behavioral problems. Nervousness is likely to cause more inappropriate scratching. Additionally, physical punishment will eventually trigger a cat’s defense mechanism and when the owner least expects it, the cat will strike out. Eventually, there is no trust at the foundation of the relationship between cat and owner.

Fear that results from physical punishment will make it nearly impossible to care for the cat. They will accept food because they can wait for the owner to leave the area, but they will be impossible to catch for a visit to the vet or for claw trimmings. Enjoyment for both the pet and owner will be lost. Cats have surprisingly good memories and are the bearers of grudges.

It is best to familiarize a cat with having claws trimmed while still a kitten. By routinely and gently stroking the paws of the cat, the feeling of familiarity with the paws being handled by you will develop. Cats should be rewarded with special edible treats which are only given during grooming procedures and claw trimming. It is important to give only one at a time immediately following or during the procedure and be consistent with the timing. Trimming a cat’s claws can be much easier once they are sleepy or relaxed. It should never be attempted while they are energetic or just been through a stressful event.

Once the cat is comfortably laying on the floor, a table or your lap, you can begin the pedicure. While holding a paw with one hand, gently press one of the cat’s toe pads to cause the claw to extend. You will see the quick or pink tissue inside the claw. You should carefully avoid cutting the quick during the trim as it will inflict a great deal of pain on the cat and cause bleeding. The sharp tip which is just below the quick should be removed by clipping it approximately halfway between claw tip and the end of the quick. If at any time during the procedure the cat becomes fidgety or impatient, try taking a time-out and resuming later.

There is no need to rush the process of claw trimming. If only one or two are clipped per day, the task will eventually be complete so there is no reason for pet or owner to be traumatized. Trimming the hind claws is rarely necessary because the cat generally accomplishes the task in the course of their own grooming. Some owners choose to have a professional trim the hind claws a few times per year while others never have them trimmed.

It is best to hold the nail clippers vertically in relation to the nail being cut. By cutting the claw vertically, as many people tend to, the likelihood of the nail splitting increases. Should the quick be cut during the trim, it is important not to panic. There may be some bleeding but it should not last long. The important thing is to soothe and calm the cat as much as possible. Petting and speaking in soft tones will help calm the cat. If bleeding does not stop within a reasonable amount of time, lightly apply a styptic pencil to the cut claw. The bleeding can also be staunched with a gentle application of styptic powder.

The frequency with which it will be necessary to trim the claws is dependent on the amount of tip that is successfully removed. Generally, claw trimming does not need to occur more often than every two weeks. If the pet owner finds it impossible to clip the cat’s claws, a veterinarian or professional pet groomer should be contacted for assistance.

The supplies needed to perform a claw trimming are designated claw trimmers and a styptic pencil or container of powder. If claw clippers, which are available at stores that sell pet supplies, are not available, sharp human nail clippers can be used instead.

The decision to declaw a cat is very difficult to make. There are many considerations especially involving the safety of the cat’s family, other household animals and the safety of the cat in question.

The declawing of a cat requires surgical procedure in which the end joint of the cat’s phalanges or “toes” are removed. The procedure is irreversible and the effects are far more serious than having the cat’s claws trimmed, contrary to popular belief. The removal of any cat’s claws cause profound changes the animal’s mobility, balance and survival instincts.

There have been instances of secondary contracture occurring in the cat’s tendons after declawing. This results in difficulty walking. Balance is affected by the displacement of weight to the cat’s hind quarters to avoid placing it on the area now missing the removed bones in the front claws. The weight shift can lead to the muscles in the forelegs developing atrophy.

The loss of natural balance is very distressing for a cat. It is in a cat’s nature is to climb and be able to balance in precarious positions. This is a natural part of the feline survival instinct and behavior. In addition to being able to adeptly remove themselves from perilous situations, a cat’s instinctual weapon of defense is the use of the sharp claws attached to the forelegs. Even cat’s that “never go outside” need a method of self-defense.

The emotional and mental well being of a cat can be permanently altered by the declawing procedure. The loss of its natural defense mechanism can cause the cat to become emotionally distressed. This level of distress can be exhibited in many ways but usually in the form of inappropriate urination and furniture spraying. The resulting insecurity caused by the removal of the front claws may result in hostile behavior directed at family members and any other animals encountered in the home.

The tenderness and pain of the cat’s paws due to the declawing procedure can cause a strong aversion to the use of litter boxes. The habit of scratching the grainy litter can cause excruciating pain in the paws. Once the cat has decided to avoid the pain of using the litter box, a much more comfortable alternative will be found and is most likely to be in a very inconvenient location for the pet owner. Habits that develop after declawing are difficult to break because the cause can never be repaired.

<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" border="0"><tr><td><img src="" /><td></tr><tr><td><td></tr></table> I did a lot of looking around before deciding on the SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post for our cats.  The number one reason I chose this post is because it’s made with fibrous, durable sisal.  I got it even though it’s definitely pricier than other posts, but I figured it would definitely last a lot longer than other models that apparently tear up easily and quickly.  Sure enough, it’s holding up well in spite of heavy use by both of our cats.  The sisal fibers inspire scratching.

When the post arrived, it required simple assembly, which didn’t take long at all to put together.  There are only two screws for the entire assembly, and it was easy. 

The post is well made with a 16-inch sturdy base.  Even when our hefty cat is using the post, there’s no wobbling; and it doesn’t tip over.

The SmartCat post is a full 32 inches high, which gives the cats plenty of room to get a full stretch.  The height is part of what makes this post such an asset.  It meets an instinctive need that felines have to stretch and tone their muscles.   I believe they also stretch up and scratch to mark their territory.

This post has neutral tones and blends in with our home décor. 

Pros:

• The SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post is sturdy. This sturdy post doesn’t tip over, even when my heavy cat is using it or sitting on top of it.
• The cats can satisfy their urge to stretch out as they scratch.  This is the best insurance that the cats will leave your furniture alone.  They can stretch up and scratch to their heart’s content.
• It’s durable.  It looks like new after the 8 months or so we’ve had it, and, according to both what I see and reviews I’ve read, I expect it to look like new for years to come.
• The cats scratch the post instead of the furniture.  Cats come by scratching just naturally, and it’s just smart to give them something to scratch instead of household furniture, woodwork, or curtains.

Cons:

• Cat accessories aren’t my wife’s idea of complementary décor.  As scratching posts go, this one looks very nice, but it’s not like it adds to the overall look of the house when it’s time to entertain.  We don’t want to move it, though, because we don’t want the cats to decide to scratch up nearby furniture in its place.
• It’s expensive. It costs more than most scratching posts up front, but because it lasts longer, in the long run, you actually save money.

If you have cats in your home, you need to get some kind of scratching post or something is going to be destroyed, such as your couch or curtains.  The SmartCat Ultimate Scratching Post is the way to go because other models tear up easily, they tip over, causing cat hairs to go everywhere, and other models don’t have the full height of this post.  The sisal material it’s made with is tightly woven and will last a very long time.  This is the best post for both cats and cat owners.

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Cats really enjoy furniture pieces uniquely designed for them especially kitty condos. Cats that spend most time indoors need safe and designated items to freely climb. Condos for cats are not cheap so it is important to obtain the best quality for the cost that can be found. Safety and durability are important factors.

Stability is a crucial element upon which to base a lot of the purchase decision when shopping for cat furniture. A quality condo for cats should not collapse or easily be pushed over when the pet uses it. The safety of small children who may want to partake of the kitty’s playhouse should be considered as well.

The assembled weight of the prospective cat furniture item in addition to the weight of the cat that will be using it should also be taken into account when shopping. Regardless of the age of the cat, the item should be able to support a fully matured pet’s weight.

The assembly requirements of a piece of cat furniture should also be considered when deciding on the perfect addition to the pet’s home. Lag bolts or wood screws are the ideal securing devices in the construction of pet furniture and disassembly should be a clear and easy process. Furniture built with nails or staples should be avoided because they tend to be easier to pull out during normal use.

Materials used in the manufacturing of cat furniture items that should be avoided are oriented-type strand board (OSB), particle board, landscaping posts, cardboard and treated wood. Use of these materials to construct cat furniture can result in a weak product. Landscaping posts warp and crack in a fairly short time while chemicals used to treat wood contain toxins that are harmful to cats. OSB and particle board often emit formaldehyde fumes that are harmful to both humans and cats. Milled lumber that has been dried by a kiln or plywood are the best choices for pet furniture construction.

Although the practical factors involved in the choosing of cat furniture are important, aesthetic appeal cannot be ignored. The cat furniture chosen should blend or coordinate with the furniture in place within the room in which it will reside. Cats don’t have much design taste so the owner should consider the overall effect on the room when choosing the color of cat furniture.

The design of the furniture item is what matters most to the cat. The perfect item to please the feline pet has a high perch to climb to which affords a view from on high. Small and dark hiding places to which the cat can escape is another popular design feature.

Scratching posts can also guarantee a cat happy with the furniture chosen. On or more of them can be prominent features on the perfect cat condo. The most popular type is the sisal scratching post but it has to be unsoiled in order to assure the cat’s safety. A catnip scratching post would be a favorite however catnip spray can serve just as well when applied to any post.

Dangling items to occupy the cat are also popular features although the length of the strings should be closely examined. Strings long enough to entangle the cat could be catastrophic. When evaluating toys for the cat, it is best to use the same standards one would apply to potential hazards for a toddler. Pets need the same kind of consideration when it comes to environmental dangers.

<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" border="0"><tr><td><img src="" /><td></tr><tr><td><td></tr></table>I got the first SmartCat Bootsie’s Combination Scratcher so our cats would have something to scratch on in the kitchen, where our family likes to congregate.  It’s an attractive scratching post and looks nice where I’ve mounted it on the wall.  The wall mounting system was very easy to install.
I like the material much better than rope sisal because the cats took to it immediately and I also think it looks nicer.  This is fibrous woven sisal that the cats obviously love scratching.  We’ve already learned that sisal is durable, and this scratcher looks like new after many months of use.
I ordered a second SmartCat Bootsie’s Combination Scratcher so we’d have a portable scratcher and when any of us are going to be spending a lot of time in a room that doesn’t have a scratching post, we bring it with us because our cats are very sociable and follow us room to room.  The rubber feet provide plenty of stability to prevent slipping when the cats are using it on the floor.  They seem to enjoy the change of a horizontal scratch.
We’ve been able to protect our furniture from the cats by providing them with scratching posts.  They need something to scratch on to help them tone their muscles and they’re also removing old nail sheaths from their claws.

Pros:

• The tightly woven sisal is a perfect scratching surface. We’ve provided different scratching posts for our cats through the years and many of them have turned out to make huge messes and tear up easily.  Some of them didn’t really interest the cats as a scratching surface.  This woven sisal is the best scratching surface I think we’ve provided for the cats.  They love it.
• It’s very durable.  This scratching post looks like new after months of use.  It’s extremely durable.
• It’s portable.  This quality scratching post is easy to transport from room to room.  Our cats like to follow us and want to hang out where we are.
• Can be wall-mounted.  I like having a scratching post that’s flush against the wall because it takes up less floor space.

Cons:

• At full price, it’s expensive for what you’re getting.  If you compare the price for this scratcher with posts that have a sturdy base, they’re not far off in price range and it seems to me this should cost less, though I did get it at a nice discount and think it’s worth the price I paid.
• Wider would be better. If this scratcher were a little wider, it would be better and definitely a better value.

Overall, I recommend the SmartCat Bootsie’s Combination Scratcher because it’s got a durable scratching surface that the cats can’t resist.  I like that it can be hung on the wall and take up less space.  I hang it so that it provides the cats with the chance to reach up and stretch and work those muscles.  I like the appearance of this scratcher.  It looks nice in any room.  It’s nice and portable and gives the cats a horizontal scratch.

Price Alert: Right now Amazon.com is offering free shipping and a 29% discount for the SmartCat Bootsie’s Combination Scratcher. This means their current price is $9.99 cheaper than the usual retail price.

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